Saturday, September 22, 2007

Photos: Colonia del Sacramento

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Photos: San Telmo

Every Sunday in Buenos Aires, there's a street market in the San Telmo barrio.

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Photos: Recoleta Cemetary

I'm slowly getting some film developed. Not entirely pleased with my photography efforts but I suppose with any artistic undertaking there's always tremendous room to keep learning. Anyway here are some pictures from the Cemetary.

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Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Paaarties

So after getting back from Argentina and being out of a job the next day, I used the following days to exploit my newfound freedom with getting out a bit. Thursday, I went with Jenna to a bar near work and realised it was the first time since beginning my job in January that I'd ever made it to happy hour in a room full of midtown suits. Which was a pleasant surprise. After, I headed down to Anne and Anna's in Astor Place and we went out for some drinks nearby.

Friday, my friend Yogi called me up and said his friend Jay was in town, would I hang out with him? I said sure, Jay gave me a call, and after a couple drinks in the East Village, we hopped on the L and headed all the way out to Bushwick to a party at my friend's place.

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Poor Jay wondering, "Where has Jenne taken me?"

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Saturday was spent catching up on some errands, then meeting Tennille for lunch in the West Village. We tried to go to the Art Parade, but it had finished by the time we arrived. So we wandered around Soho for a bit, then had a glass of wine nearby. Then I headed home to convene with Ellie. We went out with her cousins for beers, then I actually declined plans to hit up another party in Williamsburg to go home and sleep. (Some level of stress about not having a job kicked in at this point.) Sunday I watched a lot of TV at Catherines, and Monday and Tuesday I spent back at work, hurriedly putting together my portfolio. Tuesday night Gwyn and Chuck arrived, and we celebrated by drinking lots of beers, then heading out for burgers at Pete's Tavern and then some beers and card playing at d.b.a. lounge.

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Afterwards we headed to Leopard Lounge for a drum & bass night there, which we danced at til 4 am. The next day we slept til 1 pm, then awoke and went to Ess-a-Bagel for yummy bagels. And then got iced coffees and hung out in the park.

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They took off back to Baltimore, where they were visiting their parents, and I went off to my roommate's birthday party on her friend's rooftop space in the Meatpacking. It was a really nice party filled with lots of very interesting, nice people, some good music on the stereo, and delicious chocolate cake. Afterwards a group of us headed to APT, where I danced til 4 am (again).

From then on, I have been a bit more reasonable about going out ... met Daniela for a glass of wine at Coffeeshop on Thursday, had drinks in the East Village on Friday, went to Park Slope on Saturday for dinner at Sarah's followed by hanging out at The Gate, and then Sunday got up super early so I could go to New Jersey with Catherine and her Great-Uncle Joe for her birthday celebration at her sister's house. And all day affair, where I stuffed myself with crab dip and New Jersey corn and hot dogs. A feast of which has me now more than inspired to hit the gym a great deal to try to control the damage a little. All right, back to the job hunt. x

Friday, September 14, 2007

Buenos Aires, Days 9 and 10

On our second-to-last day on vacation, we headed down to the port and took a speedy ferry across the water to Uruguay so we could visit the tiny town of Colonia del Sacramento. I'd read on this UNESCO World Heritage site and was dying to see the Portugeuse town, especially because it sounded very photo-worthy. Also, I thought stepping foot in Uruguay would be somewhat cool, too.

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The ferry.

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The exciting view as we left Buenos Aires.

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Yay, we're here! We started ambling towards where we perceived the historic center to be. We were right! Nice to travel in a part of the world where just by disembarking from a boat you're not overwhelmed with people trying to hawk you merchandise or yell at you about taking a tour.

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Upon arriving, we realised how quiet this town was. Going from New York to Buenos Aires isn't exactly a shock to the system, sound- or chaos-wise. Here, we could hear the sounds of water gently lapping against the shore and birds chirping in the trees. Dogs of the town were either cruising around exploring for the day or napping in the shade (the two things most people in the city seemed to be doing, too).

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Time for a snooze?

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Gorgeous old Portugeuse tile map embedded in a wall.

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Sarah, taking in the view.

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Then we found a restaurant and took a table outside. They had a very interesting menu.
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I had a traditional Uruguayan stew, which was a delicious mix of beef, lentils, rice, and some vegetables, while we shared a bottle of Uruguayan white wine. Then it was back to exploring.

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One of my more favourite shots from the day.

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Then we walked down to some rocks near the water and lay down and napped in the sunshine for a while.

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And then we walked back to the ferry to catch our boat home.

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That evening, we went to Palermo Viejo Soho and had a lovely meal at a restaurant: lamp chops, stuffed artichoke hearts, creamed spinach, and more yummy wine. We had a drink after and then went home.

Our last day, we all split up so we could take care of our last-minute shopping needs. I shot more film, then went to Calle Florida to find a pair of Argentinean boots. I bought some for about $80, and then headed home to pack. We went to eat at Mamarama (where we'd had salads on our second day in the city) and then to a bar to play a little pool. And then back to the apartment, where we napped before leaving for the airport at 2 am to catch our return flight back to the U.S. Other than truly believing that we were going to crash and die on our flight between Buenos Aires and Sao Paolo, the return trip went fairly smoothly and we arrived back in New York that evening.

So, that's the trip. It was a very nice ten day getaway. The only downside was returning to work on Thursday and being informed that I no longer had a job. C'est la vie -- forty people had been laid off the day before, and another batch before that had been let go the month before. So, all in all, between layoffs and people quitting, my agency will likely have lost 100 people since they lost one of their biggest clients at the end of July. So since returning, I've been getting my portfolio organised and contacting people about employment. Hopefully something will work out soon!

Photos from last weekend and more consistent updates to come -- now that I'm jobless, I've got no excuse for proper blogging again. Also will have additional photos up from the trip when I get the film developed. Soon!! x

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Buenos Aires, Days 6, 7, and 8

As mentioned in the previous post, after our wild night out at the tango show (and afterwards), our fifth day was spent mostly recovering. By Friday we were back to our lively selves again. During the day we took a walk from the center through San Telmo and into La Boca, the rough barrio near the water. We visited the famous painted Caminito (which I photographed using my manual camera, so photos will come later), then trekked many streets to a restaurant that all the guidebooks mention as a Buenos Aires "must." (Afterwards, I read that one shouldn't walk from Caminito to this restaurant for fear of being mugged ... but I guess ignorance is bliss. Thank goodness, too, because I have been mugged enough for one lifetime!)

That evening, we went out for steaks in Recoleta.

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The ceiling of the parilla.

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Mmmmm, meat!

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Our yummy panqueques with dulce de leche. Yum, yum!

After dinner, we went to Deep Blue, a chic pool hall, where Sarah showed us her skills. Then we went to the basement of The Shamrock for a bit where we danced around to some sparse techno beats seemingly favoured by the crowds of the town, and then to Milion for our final drink of the evening.

Saturday, I headed back to the Recoleta Cemetary and took some photos with the manual camera. I was so stuffed from the night before, I barely ate anything all day so that I would actually have an appetite for dinner that night. Which was good, too, because we went to Bella Italia in Palermo and it was divine.

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The gorgeous bread creation that landed on our table.

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I had lemon ravioli which was very interesting and very good -- just the faintest accent of lemon zest running through a light and sweet cream sauce with bits of smoked salmon, atop perfectly cooked ravioils. Really divine.

Sarah wasn't feeling that well, so Cristina and I headed off to Belgrano to visit my friend Christina. I met Christina while teaching English in Madrid; look through some of the archives in 2004 and you'll see her in a few of the pictures. She's living in Buenos Aires now, doing an M.B.A. at a university and teaching English. She and her Argentinean boyfriend Maty had a little get together with some of their friends, who hailed from the Argentina, the U.S., the U.K., Mexico, Peru, Germany, and France. It was quite the international shindig, and really fun.

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Christina and Maty's dog Bruno who kept jumping up to sit at the table with the grown-ups. Suspiciously near the bottle of wine, too.

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Christina and me.

Christina had hurt her foot a few days earlier, so she stayed at the apartment with Maty, while a group of us headed off to a club in the basement of a hotel.

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Again more sparse and electronic techno beats. Good stuff, but a little minimal for my taste. After about a half hour I want to start chanting, "Give a girl a breakbeat!" Which, now that I think about it, would make a fantastic little breakbeat track.

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I practice my 'mean' face with Alejandro, one of the guests of the party.

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We had a pretty late night on Saturday and Sunday was spent in a fairly mellow way. Sarah and I ventured out to San Telmo to check out the Sunday street market. All sorts of stuff for sale, from antiques to mate glasses to traditional crafts, with lots of live music on the streets and tango dancers whirling about. I shot some of the action with my manual camera, then met Sarah in a nearby café where we had a couple beers.

That night we headed out to dinner and went for Argentinean pizza at a place in Palermo Viejo.

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Argentinean pizza is absolutely delicious (as you'd imagine it would be, given the heavy influx of Italians into the area), and is served with a side of faina, a very thin wedge of baked, ground chickpeas. We were also served fresh, steaming empanadas while we waited for our two pizzas to arrrive. A really good meal, and one of the absolute cheapest from our trip.

And after we stopped in Mundo Bizarro for a couple drinks.

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Artwork on the walls of Mundo Bizarro

Then it was to bed, for the next day we had an exciting daytrip to Uruguay planned. Photos soon to come. x

Monday, September 10, 2007

Buenos Aires, Days 4 and 5

On our fourth day, we woke up, had our mandatory medialunas (con queso y jamon) and coffees, and set off on foot for the Cemetario Recoleta.

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Statue along the way.

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Weird nightclub/restaurant across from the cemetary made to look like something straight out of Indiana Jones.

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As usual, we were starving after the two hour hike across town, so before exploring the cemetary, we stopped for a bite to eat at a café across the way.

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I had this awesome sandwich, which was made out of the largest pieces of bread I've ever seen.

Then it was time for the Cemetary, where all of Argentina's most rich and famous are buried.

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Lots of stray cats chilling.

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Then we went for another stroll over to the MALBA, which I believe stands for the Museo de Arte Latino Buenos Aires. After checking out some art, we perused the bookstore, where I picked up an awesome book by Latin American photographer Marcos López.

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Entrance to the MALBA

Then it was the walk back to our house, where we readied ourselves for a night in San Telmo at a tango bar, Bar Sur.

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Like typical Americans, we arrived right on time. Actually, we arrived early and took a stroll in the not-entirely-lovely neighbourhood. Once upon a time, San Telmo was filled with the rich, but due to yellow fever outbreaks in the late 1800s, the rich fled to the countryside and the once gorgeous façades now erode in decay.

Anyway, once safely inside Bar Sur, the entertainment and wine commenced. The world's oldest living human being took a seat at a small piano and began to play, while an older woman sang us songs of forbidden love and passion. This as we polished off our first bottle of wine.

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Then it was time for another act, and another bottle of wine. I think the venue's owners had no idea what to do with us -- sure, entertainment was supposed to begin at 8 pm, but I don't know if they were really expecting anyone. Still, the show went on.

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Next up it was time for the first pair of tango dancers. And then another pair, after which the man asked for my hand for a dance. After demurely saying no, I suddenly found myself pulled to the floor and whisked around the room in what I can only call a heady, sensuous whirl of which I can little recollection. I just remember returning to the table with my heart pounding and my cheeks flushed.

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Then, another band.
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Then, another singer.

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Then the dancers returned for another dance. After the second couple finished, the man this time whisked Sarah on to the dancefloor.

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Little to our knowledge, we happened to arrive on the night of Bar Sur's 40th anniversary, which was honoured by giving all the patrons (thankfully all the tables had filled by now) a complementary glass of champagne.

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Speeches were made, toasts were performed, and then everyone was invited into the small dancefloor to dance.

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This man was like the Fred Astaire of Bar Sur, and after Sarah, he took me for a dance around the room.

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Cristina having a dance with one of the other tango perfomers. He was my favourite -- he had this incredibly tender, sensitive face and evoked the purest air of deep passion.

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At some point our food was served and we began our third bottle of wine. (Yes, parents, I know. It's called a vacation though, right?) I began sneaking photos of the billion-year-old maestro.

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And then, more music.

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This one I particularly love, only because despite being blurry, it reminds me of an old Impressionist painting.

Afterwards, Cristina left to go home and sleep while Sarah and I continued the fiesta at a nearby pub where we chatted with some Argentinean boys about the best restaurants in the city til the bars shut. Needless to say, our fifth day in the city was not exactly productive and we spent most of the day on the couch, heading only to Mexican restaurant La Xalapa that evening for the 'best margaritas in the world' and an accidental (?) sighting of one of the forementioned Argentineans. (Even though he'd told us he used to work at La Xalapa, it turns out, he still works at La Xalapa ... but solo jueves, he insisted. (By Friday night, it turned out he also worked there viernes, and by the end of the trip, we realised he worked there sabado and martes, tambien.)

More days to come ... besitos x

Sunday, September 09, 2007

Argentina, Day 3

On our third day (second morning) in Buenos Aires, we woke up, enjoyed our morning coffees and medialunas (probably the best croissants in the world), and set off for the city centre.

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The Catedral on the right, with probably the strangest church façade I've ever seen -- it looks like the front of a classical Greek government building.

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The Casa Rosada

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Right next to this building a large protest was forming, one which continued up Avenida de Mayo towards the Palacio de Congreso.

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The protest marching alongside us.

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Avenida de Mayo

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We stopped at the famous Café Tortoni for a bite to eat.

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Stained glass ceiling at Café Tortoni

From there, we continued up Avenida de Mayo, then walked down crowded Avenida Corrientes towards Calle Florida, where we did a little window shopping, and then some real shopping at the amazing shop Prüne, purveyor of amazing leather products.

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Sarah bought a great pair of boots. (I found a very lovely wallet in a gorgeous aquamarine colour, for only $17US!)

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Shops along Calle Florida

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Bus near the entrance to Plaza San Martin

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Looking down the hill towards Torre de los Ingleses

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Then we walked back towards our apartment, through Retire and Recoleta. It was a long walk, but we got to check out some cool architecture along the way, like this amazing house (now a hotel, I believe).

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After returning home, we napped and read, then got ready to head to dinner in Palermo Viejo Hollywood. We went for Vietnamese at the funky and chic Green Bamboo.

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Chandelier at Green Bamboo

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I had a great beef dish.

We then headed to Acabar for some drinks. They have a ton of games, most of which were in Spanish, and some homemade Jenga sets.

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Sarah and the amazing Jenga tower.

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Cristina and the amazing Jenga tower.

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"Oh no! It's falling over! Jenga!!!!!"

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These boys had a much better Jenga tower than us.

Acabar closed, so we headed off to Unico, where we had our first encounter with a really annoying, pestering Argentinean man whom we rudely told to go away. (Nothing like some time spent in New York to make one really uncaring of anyone else's feelings.) And then home, to sleep some before our next day of sightseeing.

Saturday, September 08, 2007

Argentina, Days 1 and 2

If you don't know where to start, start at the beginning, verdad? Last Saturday, I met my travelling companions Sarah and Cristina at JFK to embark on our 10 day vacation in Buenos Aires. We flew down on TAM, which was painfully delayed, but since no one else waiting to board the flight exhibited one bit of impatience, we decided to go with the Brazilian flow and exhibit a little patience our selves. Finally I asked one crew member what was taking so long.

TAM employee, cocking his head to the side and narrowing his eyes a touch: "This your first trip down there?"
Me: "Yeah."
TAM employee and all the other TAM employees have a long, hearty, enthusiastic chuckle. "Well, we have to search the plane."
Me: "Oh, search the plane for what? What are you looking for?" (Spoken with pure naivite.)
TAM employee: "You know, search the plane for stuff. People sometimes leave stuff on the plane."
Me: "Drugs!?!?!?!?!?!?"
TAM employee, raises and eyebrow and turns back to his fellow employees and begins speaking Portugeuse and enjoying another hearty chuckle.

OK, on to some photos.

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Cristina, pre-trip.

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Me, rearing to go. Also proof of why no one under 5'9" is ever allowed to photograph me ever again.

We got to Argentina on Sunday afternoon and headed straight to the apartment we'd rented in Palermo. We were exhausted, but motivated ourselves up to Palermo Viejo Soho, where we immediately found this awesome little café called Janio. After cafés con leche, we moved on to an amazing bottle of wine and a platter of antipasti.

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I only hang out with girls in glasses.

After a bite to eat, we went to a couple other bars in Palermo Viejo and then headed home so we could get up early the next day to do some exploring. The next day we headed back to Palermo Viejo to get a sense of the shops and restaurants in this trendy neighbourhood.

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Avenida Santa Fe

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Park near Avenida Santa Fe

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Café on Scalabrini Ortiz

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Car near the Supermercado on Calle Costa Rica

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Café Janio, where we'd eated the night before

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Shop in Palermo Viejo, Soho

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Statute in front of a polo store

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Burger King ad for the Simpsons with Homer removed

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Old home, now home to Acabar, where we went a night or two later

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That night we went for steaks at a restaurant in Palermo Viejo.

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Our nice waiter.

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Sarah, giving it a sniff

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It was up to our incredibly high standards

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Sarah got these really good brochettes. I was adventurous and got matambrito, which turns out to be a cut of the belly that's basically like a tough piece of meat with a thick layer of fat on it. Not exactly the best meal of my life; I think I only managed to eat a few bites before deciding it was not particularly enjoyable.

Anyway, that was our first two days. I'll be posting about some of the others shortly. Besos! xo

Friday, September 07, 2007

Thoughts in Cemetario Recoleta, Buenos Aires

One of my many tasks for the weekend is to begin updating my few hundred photos taken over the last 10 days during my trip to Buenos Aires. In the meantime -- only because its meaning has become slightly more pertinent in the past couple days -- here are some thoughts had while walking around the Recoleta Cemetary on Saturday in Buenos Aires shooting a few rolls of film with my fabulous little Nikon FM2.

Change is inherently good. Life is constant change, from the most minute fluctuations of ions, to the grandiose movement of stars. We are born, we live, we die. What is its meaning? We live day to day in a constant state of movements internal and external, only to be stripped of our awareness in our final moments. Our existence is merely the sum of parts -- the sum of change. It is this sum, how we found meaning for ourselves, and more importantly, how we influenced the meaning of others', that is what counts.