On our fourth day, we woke up, had our mandatory medialunas (con queso y jamon) and coffees, and set off on foot for the Cemetario Recoleta.

Statue along the way.


Weird nightclub/restaurant across from the cemetary made to look like something straight out of Indiana Jones.

As usual, we were starving after the two hour hike across town, so before exploring the cemetary, we stopped for a bite to eat at a café across the way.

I had this awesome sandwich, which was made out of the largest pieces of bread I've ever seen.
Then it was time for the Cemetary, where all of Argentina's most rich and famous are buried.



Lots of stray cats chilling.








Then we went for another stroll over to the MALBA, which I believe stands for the Museo de Arte Latino Buenos Aires. After checking out some art, we perused the bookstore, where I picked up an awesome book by Latin American photographer
Marcos López.
Entrance to the MALBAThen it was the walk back to our house, where we readied ourselves for a night in San Telmo at a tango bar, Bar Sur.

Like typical Americans, we arrived right on time. Actually, we arrived early and took a stroll in the not-entirely-lovely neighbourhood. Once upon a time, San Telmo was filled with the rich, but due to yellow fever outbreaks in the late 1800s, the rich fled to the countryside and the once gorgeous façades now erode in decay.
Anyway, once safely inside Bar Sur, the entertainment and wine commenced. The world's oldest living human being took a seat at a small piano and began to play, while an older woman sang us songs of forbidden love and passion. This as we polished off our first bottle of wine.

Then it was time for another act, and another bottle of wine. I think the venue's owners had no idea what to do with us -- sure, entertainment was supposed to begin at 8 pm, but I don't know if they were really expecting anyone. Still, the show went on.


Next up it was time for the first pair of tango dancers. And then another pair, after which the man asked for
my hand for a dance. After demurely saying no, I suddenly found myself pulled to the floor and whisked around the room in what I can only call a heady, sensuous whirl of which I can little recollection. I just remember returning to the table with my heart pounding and my cheeks flushed.

Then, another band.



Then, another singer.



Then the dancers returned for another dance. After the second couple finished, the man this time whisked Sarah on to the dancefloor.

Little to our knowledge, we happened to arrive on the night of Bar Sur's 40th anniversary, which was honoured by giving all the patrons (thankfully all the tables had filled by now) a complementary glass of champagne.




Speeches were made, toasts were performed, and then everyone was invited into the small dancefloor to dance.


This man was like the Fred Astaire of Bar Sur, and after Sarah, he took me for a dance around the room.

Cristina having a dance with one of the other tango perfomers. He was my favourite -- he had this incredibly tender, sensitive face and evoked the purest air of deep passion.

At some point our food was served and we began our third bottle of wine. (Yes,
parents, I
know. It's called a
vacation though, right?) I began sneaking photos of the billion-year-old maestro.


And then, more music.


This one I particularly love, only because despite being blurry, it reminds me of an old Impressionist painting.
Afterwards, Cristina left to go home and sleep while Sarah and I continued the fiesta at a nearby pub where we chatted with some Argentinean boys about the best restaurants in the city til the bars shut. Needless to say, our fifth day in the city was not exactly productive and we spent most of the day on the couch, heading only to Mexican restaurant La Xalapa that evening for the 'best margaritas in the world' and an accidental (?) sighting of one of the forementioned Argentineans. (Even though he'd told us he
used to work at La Xalapa, it turns out, he still works at La Xalapa ... but
solo jueves, he insisted. (By Friday night, it turned out he also worked there
viernes, and by the end of the trip, we realised he worked there
sabado and
martes, tambien.)
More days to come ... besitos x